Editorial
Notes on the Spring/Summer collection — inflated rims, soft geometry, and the problem of making a large frame that does not feel large.
The brief for SS2024 was a single sentence: make them bigger without making them heavier. Everything in the collection is a consequence of that.
The inflated rim
A large frame is usually large because there is more material in it. The rim gets thicker, the front gets deeper, and the whole thing gains weight in exactly the place you feel it most — on the bridge of the nose. Four grams there is worth twenty anywhere else.
The inflated rim solves this by moving the volume outward rather than adding it inward. The outer edge swells; the section behind it does not. From the front the frame reads as substantial. On the face it weighs what a thin frame weighs.
Soft geometry
Three of the shapes read as round from the front and square in profile. This is not a trick for its own sake — a hard geometric front is unforgiving on a face that is not symmetrical, and almost none are. Softening the corner in one axis keeps the graphic quality and loses the severity.
- Bolla Oversize — the largest, and the clearest statement of the brief.
- Infalted Cateye — the rim at its most exaggerated, milled from one block.
- Bow Sunglasses — round from the front, square from the side, 22 grams.
What we left out
There is no metal in this collection. Metal is the obvious route to a light large frame and it produces a different object — colder, more clinical, and impossible to adjust with heat. We would rather a heavier material handled well than a lighter one handled badly.
Eleven silhouettes. All acetate. All cut in Milan.
